Few other dog breeds are so seemingly surprising that the Siberian Husky. Their sweet temperament and playful nature make great family pets, you can give them the exercise and companionship they need. They are a unique breed with their endurance, and the test of double layers, protect their skin from the extremes of temperature in the cold or hot conditions. Well known for their remarkable blue eyes, and not all dogs have that color, some are brown or both eyes, one blue, one brown. As the proud owner of six of the race, here are a few things that I learned from both research and experience.
Do
* Getting a companion for your Siberian husky if possible. Siberians are pack dogs and bored easily. They do not like to be left alone. If you do, you can find big holes dug in the garden when you return home as Siberians can be very destructive when bored. If you are presenting the pet to another when they have a better chance of adapting when puppy in hood. They managed to mix with cats and other dogs present you young. Our six Siberians live in peace and relative harmony with four cats.
* Fence firmly in your court, so that the foundations are deep and the barrier is too high for them to jump over. Huskies are enthusiastic shovels and world-class and are excellent jumpers escape artists. In addition, their favorite pastime in the garden seems to be digging in their bowls of water!
* Make sure your exercise is quite raspy. As they work Siberians dogs are not a good way to low energy consumption of households. However, if you have a companion dogs they like to play "tag" with each other and often by themselves bring revolves around your garden, if it is large enough.
* Invest time and patience in training. Siberians are very intelligent dogs, but also voluntary. They can not do anything unless they see the reasons for doing so, not just to please their owners.
* Keep them on a leash at all times outside in an open area. Like many owners Sibe know their cost, as Huskies to launch and run, and lose all sense of reality. Unfortunately, many huskies are lost or injured because of this single mind, as when they realize they have outrun their owners or are too far from home, it is too late. Worse still, they could find themselves running in the path of a car.
* Get checked regularly for dysplasia of the hip around 6 years and older. While race does not have a wide range of documented health problems they are prone to dysplasia of the hip, especially if they do not have high levels of fat and protein in their diet. The lifespan of a husky is usually 12-15 years. So they are deemed to withstand the coldest temperatures, double layer also offers them the protection of the skin from the sun in warmer climates, but with their very dense coat, you can find your favorite position Husky is sitting in front the unit air-conditioning, Prone on his back with all four paws in the air!
* If, like me, you live in a developing country (or region), not Western standards of veterinary care then check very carefully with regard to the type of anesthesia to give your Sibe. Get your veterinarian to do a test if necessary. It is possible that severe reactions can occur in Huskies if not given the equivalent of anesthesia - I speak from experience here. Fortunately I had read about the dangers from the outset and in order to avoid being neutral, as the type of anesthesia was not available. However, there came a time when one of my Huskies need for immediate surgery for a situation of life and death and I almost lost because of his bad reaction to anesthesia. His whole face and body swollen and require urgent attention. I now live in a region where the good quality types (human) is available local anesthesia and the veterinarian understands the vagaries of race; So all have since been sterilized without any problems.
Do not
* Getting a Husky if you want a watchdog. With their kind, they are affectionate friendly to everyone, even strangers. They are big "guardians", she will see a thief to come in your house and greet with enthusiasm, then watch them leave your TV, computer, etc., giving them a friendly lick send them on their way!
* Worry too grooming. They are pretty low maintenance, which requires a minimum of brushing daily. But twice a year, they shed profusely, and then they need more care.
* Expect your Husky to bark. Instead, they have a great ability to speak, wooing screaming and yodelling and can make complete sentences at the interaction with their owners and to begin play. These dogs are real talkers, you never know what sounds they will make next, and seem to have more and more vocabulary as the years go by. Some mines are now able to complete sentences, talking about the weather and as such!
* Overfeed them. Siberians are saving (and picky) eaters and therefore do not require as much food as you would think. Because of their sensitive digestive system (remember they are sled dogs), they can better with fish and meat products white rather than red meat. They also need fish oil in their diet, maintain a healthy coat and nails. This could be in the form of sardines or more dry food and veterinary supplements containing Omega-3 today.
Jumat, 26 Oktober 2007
Selasa, 18 September 2007
4 Main Races of Husky
The huskies or dogs Scandinavian are composed of four races:
Samoyède
With its long white hairs, it is originating in the north of Russia (tribe of Samoyèdes).
It was used since 1893 by forwardings polar of Norwegian Fridjof Nansen.
The Greenlander
He is still used in Greenland by Inuits, he is very enduring and more reliable than a motor bike snows.
Malamute
IT is largest and heaviest of the Scandinavian dogs. It has a remarkable capacity to tractor draw heavy loads. It holds its name of the tribe of Malhmuts which lived in Alaska.
Sibérian Husky
IT is most known of the Scandinavian dogs and approaches more of the wolf. It is originating in the tribe of Tchouktches in Siberia. It has a great capacity to tractor draw average charges at very long distances.
“Siberian Husky is a dog of work, selected to draw a light load at speed moderate on long distances. This long-distance runner nimble, powerful and is equipped with an enormous load-carrying capacity. It is a worker full with goodwill, a soft, waked up and sociable companion. Forged by the hard conditions of the Arctic, Siberian Husky has a very good memory and an excellent direction of the orientation. Of an above-average intelligence, it is able to take initiatives. Dog of pack, Husky needs hierarchical rules. In fact, it is the Master who must play the part of chief of pack, dominating, honest and especially without fault. ”. Thus Marie Luce Hubert and Jean-Louis Klein in their book define it:
“my dog, Siberian Husky”. Very many books were devoted to Huskies but this one is, in my opinion, one of best (food, health, raising, breeding,… etc suitable for Siberian Husky).
Alaskan Husky
IT is not a pedigree dog. It is the result of crossings between Siberian Husky and the dogs of the greyhound type or setters for their quality of speed. It is before a whole sprinter whereas Siberian Husky is more one long-distance runner.
Note:
Siberian Husky seems more “to be with the mode”, and it is very well as follows: enough to see these animals living in centre town, locked up all the day in apartment and which one finds with the SPA. One can completely live in apartment that was my case before having a house with ground, but that does not want to say that the dog made “of the settee” all the day and must corrode the feet of table to occupy itself… If one decides to have a husky, it is better to have already an active and sporting life. Siberian Husky requires that one deals with him because there does not like to remain all alone and with need to be spent physically regularly. You are not obliged to make mountain the every day or of going to Canada!!! but one strolls daily and an excursion on average mountain or in the countryside the weekend is already a super program for your companion. Many possibilities are thus offered to you: VTT, excursion, rackets with snow, ski touring, pulka, race with foot, rollers and other mountain activities like the alpinism and the ski touring.
Samoyède
With its long white hairs, it is originating in the north of Russia (tribe of Samoyèdes).
It was used since 1893 by forwardings polar of Norwegian Fridjof Nansen.
The Greenlander
He is still used in Greenland by Inuits, he is very enduring and more reliable than a motor bike snows.
Malamute
IT is largest and heaviest of the Scandinavian dogs. It has a remarkable capacity to tractor draw heavy loads. It holds its name of the tribe of Malhmuts which lived in Alaska.
Sibérian Husky
IT is most known of the Scandinavian dogs and approaches more of the wolf. It is originating in the tribe of Tchouktches in Siberia. It has a great capacity to tractor draw average charges at very long distances.
“Siberian Husky is a dog of work, selected to draw a light load at speed moderate on long distances. This long-distance runner nimble, powerful and is equipped with an enormous load-carrying capacity. It is a worker full with goodwill, a soft, waked up and sociable companion. Forged by the hard conditions of the Arctic, Siberian Husky has a very good memory and an excellent direction of the orientation. Of an above-average intelligence, it is able to take initiatives. Dog of pack, Husky needs hierarchical rules. In fact, it is the Master who must play the part of chief of pack, dominating, honest and especially without fault. ”. Thus Marie Luce Hubert and Jean-Louis Klein in their book define it:
“my dog, Siberian Husky”. Very many books were devoted to Huskies but this one is, in my opinion, one of best (food, health, raising, breeding,… etc suitable for Siberian Husky).
Alaskan Husky
IT is not a pedigree dog. It is the result of crossings between Siberian Husky and the dogs of the greyhound type or setters for their quality of speed. It is before a whole sprinter whereas Siberian Husky is more one long-distance runner.
Note:
Siberian Husky seems more “to be with the mode”, and it is very well as follows: enough to see these animals living in centre town, locked up all the day in apartment and which one finds with the SPA. One can completely live in apartment that was my case before having a house with ground, but that does not want to say that the dog made “of the settee” all the day and must corrode the feet of table to occupy itself… If one decides to have a husky, it is better to have already an active and sporting life. Siberian Husky requires that one deals with him because there does not like to remain all alone and with need to be spent physically regularly. You are not obliged to make mountain the every day or of going to Canada!!! but one strolls daily and an excursion on average mountain or in the countryside the weekend is already a super program for your companion. Many possibilities are thus offered to you: VTT, excursion, rackets with snow, ski touring, pulka, race with foot, rollers and other mountain activities like the alpinism and the ski touring.
Kamis, 30 Agustus 2007
Sibverian Husky Standard
The Siberian husky is a dog working average, quickly and light on its feet and free and gracious in the action. Its moderately compact and well-hairy body, right ears and tail of brush suggest its Scandinavian heritage. Its characteristic step is smooth and apparently without effort. It most skilfully carries out its original function in the harness, supporting a light load distances from a moderate surplus from speed to the large ones. Its proportions and forms body reflect this basic balance of the forces, speed and resistance. The males of the race of Siberian husky are male but never rough; the bitches are female but without weakness of structure. In adapted state, with the company of muscle and developed well, the Siberian husky does not carry the excessive weight.
Cut, proportion, substance
Cut: Dogs, 21 to 23 inches of 1/2 with the garrot. Bitch, 20 to 22 inches with the garrot.
Weight: Dogs, 45 to 60 books. Bitch, 35 to 50 books. The weight is proportionally with the size. Measurements mentioned above represent the extreme limits of size and weight without the preference indicated to one or the other extreme. Any aspect of bone or excessive weight should be penalized. In the profile, the length of the body of the point of the shoulder at the back point of the croup is slightly longer than the size of the body of the ground to the top of the garrot.
Disqualification: Dogs more than 23 inches of 1/2 and bitch more than 22 inches.
Head
Expression: Is sharp, but friendly; interested and even malfaisant.
Eyes: The almond formed, moderately spaced and placed an oblique trifle. The eyes can be brown or blue colors; one of each one or party-coloured are acceptable. Defects: Regulated eyes too oblique; to place too narrowly together.
Ears: Average, triangular size in the high one of form, with tolerances tight and regulated on the head. They thick, quite hairy, are slightly arched at the bottom, and strongly set up, with ends slightly rounded moving directly upwards. Defects: Too large ears proportionally with the head; broad-to place too; to set up not strongly.
Cranium: Average size and proportionally with the body; slightly rounded on the top and to fray the broadest point with the eyes. Defects: The awkward or heavy main thing; head too finely engraved.
Stop: The stop is well defined and the bridge of the nose comes directly from the stop to the end. Defect: Insufficient stop.
Muzzle: Average length; i.e., the distance from the end of the nose to the stop is equal to the stopping distance to the occiput. The muzzle is of average width, fraying gradually with the nose, with the directed end neither nor square. Defects: To muzzle snipy too much or too gross; to muzzle too short or too length.
Nose: To blacken at the gray dogs, bronzings or blacks; liver in the copper dogs; can flesh-be coloured in the pure white dogs. The “nose of snow” pink-striated is acceptable.
Lips: To be well pigmented and with tight tolerances.
Teeth: Closing in a bite of scissors. Defect: any bite other than of the scissors.
Neck, Topline, body
Neck: Medium in right length, arched and proudly carried when the dog is held. While moving with a trot, the neck is prolonged so that the head forwards is slightly carried. Defects: Too short neck and deeply; too long neck.
Case: Deep and strong, but not too broad, with the major point being right behind and of level with the elbows. The veins well-are spouted out spine but are flattened sides to take account of the liberty of action. Defects: Case too broad; “veins of barrel; ” vein too flat or weak.
Back: The back is right and strong, with a topline of level of garrot to the croup. It is average length, neither cobby nor coward excessive length. The spine is tended and thin, narrower than the camp of vein, and with light remplier-towards the top. The croup inclines far from the spine under an angle, but never so much fast inclined as for limiting the back push of the legs of behind. Defects: Weak back or coward; roached behind; inclined topline.
short bée; plumed strongly the tail; so low regulated tail or too high.
Front districts
Shoulders: The blade of shoulder is well given. The arm high fishes slightly towards the back of the point of shoulder to draw aside from a blow of elbow, and is never perpendicular to the ground. The muscles and the ligaments holding the shoulder on the camp of vein firm and are well developed. Defects: Right shoulders; shoulders cowards.
Forefeet: And seen so upright the front one, the legs is moderately spaced, parallel and right, with the elbows close to the body and turned neither inside nor outside. Seen side, pasterns are slightly tilted, with the strong commun run pastern, but flexible. The bone is substantial but never heavy. The length of the leg of the elbow to be rectified is slightly more than the distance from the elbow to the signal of withers. Dewclaws one forelegs may Be removed. Faults: Weak pasterns; too heavy bone; too narrow gold too wide in the face; out At the elbows.
Feet: Of oval form but not to wish ardently. The legs are average in the face, compact and well-hairy between the toes and the trimmings. The trimmings hard and are abundantly deadened. The legs neither turn in nor outside when the dog is in the normal position. Defects: Soft or widened toes; too large and awkward legs; too small and sensitive legs; botter inside or outside.
Hindquarters
And seen so upright back, the legs of behind are moderately spaced and parallel. The higher thighs are bien-musculeuses and powerful, suffocates well folded, the low well defined and regulated joint of wine of the Rhine to the ground. Dewclaws, if necessary, must be removed. Defects: Suffocate directly, the cowhocks, too narrow or the too broad one with the back.
Coat
The coat of the Siberian husky is double and medium in the length, giving a well-hairy aspect, but is never provided that to darken contour Net of the dog. The undercoat is soft and dense and the sufficient length to support the external coat. The hairs of guard of the external coat are directly and slightly smooth-lie, never hard nor position immediately of the body. It is advisable to note that the absence of the undercoat during the season of loss is règlage normal favourites and the fur between the toes and around the feet to present an aspect more ordered is allowed. To balance the fur on any other part of the dog should not be forgiven and should severely be penalized. Defects: Length, rough, or shaggy coat; texture too hard or too silky; règlage of the coat, except as authorized above.
Color
One allows all the colors of black the pure white. A variety of inscriptions on the head is common, including many seizing models not found in other races.
Step
The step characteristic of Siberian husky is smooth and apparently without effort. It is fast and light on its feet, and when in the exposure the ring should be gaited on a loose advance with a moderately fast trot, showing the good extension in the districts before and the good order in the back districts. Once seen of before with back all while moving with a walk the Siberian husky step with single rail, but as speed increases the legs fish gradually towards the interior until the trimmings fall on a line directly under the longitudinal center from the body. Because the marks of trimming converge, the forefeet and the legs of behind frank are carried, with neither of the elbows nor suffocate turned inside or outside. Each leg of behind moves in the way of the forefoot on the same side. While the dog gaiting, the topline remains company and level. Defects: Shorts, caracoler or step of step, to advance heavily or roll variable; crossing or crabbing.
Temperament
The temperament characteristic of the Siberian husky is friendly and also softens, but alarm and outgoing. It does not show possessive qualities of the watchdog, nor is finished it suspicious foreigners or aggressive with other dogs. A certain measurement of reservation and dignity can be envisaged in the ripe dog. Its intelligence, tractability, and eager provision make him a pleasant companion and a workman laid out.
Summary
The most important characteristics of race of the Siberian husky are average size, bone moderated, well balanced, facilitated and freedom of movement proportions, adapted coat, pleasant head and ears, correct tail, and good provision. Any aspect of step excessive of bone or weight, tightened or awkward, or to wish ardently, rough coat should be penalized. The Siberian husky never seems so heavy or rough as for suggesting an animal of transport; nor it is ignite thus and fragile as for suggesting an animal of Sprint-packing. In the two sexes the Siberian husky gives the aspect to be able of the great resistance. In addition to the already remarkable defects, the obvious structural defects common to all the races are as undesirable in the Siberian husky as in any other race, though they are not specifically mentioned above.
Disqualification
Dogs more than 23 inches of 1/2 and bitch more than 22 inches
Cut, proportion, substance
Cut: Dogs, 21 to 23 inches of 1/2 with the garrot. Bitch, 20 to 22 inches with the garrot.
Weight: Dogs, 45 to 60 books. Bitch, 35 to 50 books. The weight is proportionally with the size. Measurements mentioned above represent the extreme limits of size and weight without the preference indicated to one or the other extreme. Any aspect of bone or excessive weight should be penalized. In the profile, the length of the body of the point of the shoulder at the back point of the croup is slightly longer than the size of the body of the ground to the top of the garrot.
Disqualification: Dogs more than 23 inches of 1/2 and bitch more than 22 inches.
Head
Expression: Is sharp, but friendly; interested and even malfaisant.
Eyes: The almond formed, moderately spaced and placed an oblique trifle. The eyes can be brown or blue colors; one of each one or party-coloured are acceptable. Defects: Regulated eyes too oblique; to place too narrowly together.
Ears: Average, triangular size in the high one of form, with tolerances tight and regulated on the head. They thick, quite hairy, are slightly arched at the bottom, and strongly set up, with ends slightly rounded moving directly upwards. Defects: Too large ears proportionally with the head; broad-to place too; to set up not strongly.
Cranium: Average size and proportionally with the body; slightly rounded on the top and to fray the broadest point with the eyes. Defects: The awkward or heavy main thing; head too finely engraved.
Stop: The stop is well defined and the bridge of the nose comes directly from the stop to the end. Defect: Insufficient stop.
Muzzle: Average length; i.e., the distance from the end of the nose to the stop is equal to the stopping distance to the occiput. The muzzle is of average width, fraying gradually with the nose, with the directed end neither nor square. Defects: To muzzle snipy too much or too gross; to muzzle too short or too length.
Nose: To blacken at the gray dogs, bronzings or blacks; liver in the copper dogs; can flesh-be coloured in the pure white dogs. The “nose of snow” pink-striated is acceptable.
Lips: To be well pigmented and with tight tolerances.
Teeth: Closing in a bite of scissors. Defect: any bite other than of the scissors.
Neck, Topline, body
Neck: Medium in right length, arched and proudly carried when the dog is held. While moving with a trot, the neck is prolonged so that the head forwards is slightly carried. Defects: Too short neck and deeply; too long neck.
Case: Deep and strong, but not too broad, with the major point being right behind and of level with the elbows. The veins well-are spouted out spine but are flattened sides to take account of the liberty of action. Defects: Case too broad; “veins of barrel; ” vein too flat or weak.
Back: The back is right and strong, with a topline of level of garrot to the croup. It is average length, neither cobby nor coward excessive length. The spine is tended and thin, narrower than the camp of vein, and with light remplier-towards the top. The croup inclines far from the spine under an angle, but never so much fast inclined as for limiting the back push of the legs of behind. Defects: Weak back or coward; roached behind; inclined topline.
short bée; plumed strongly the tail; so low regulated tail or too high.
Front districts
Shoulders: The blade of shoulder is well given. The arm high fishes slightly towards the back of the point of shoulder to draw aside from a blow of elbow, and is never perpendicular to the ground. The muscles and the ligaments holding the shoulder on the camp of vein firm and are well developed. Defects: Right shoulders; shoulders cowards.
Forefeet: And seen so upright the front one, the legs is moderately spaced, parallel and right, with the elbows close to the body and turned neither inside nor outside. Seen side, pasterns are slightly tilted, with the strong commun run pastern, but flexible. The bone is substantial but never heavy. The length of the leg of the elbow to be rectified is slightly more than the distance from the elbow to the signal of withers. Dewclaws one forelegs may Be removed. Faults: Weak pasterns; too heavy bone; too narrow gold too wide in the face; out At the elbows.
Feet: Of oval form but not to wish ardently. The legs are average in the face, compact and well-hairy between the toes and the trimmings. The trimmings hard and are abundantly deadened. The legs neither turn in nor outside when the dog is in the normal position. Defects: Soft or widened toes; too large and awkward legs; too small and sensitive legs; botter inside or outside.
Hindquarters
And seen so upright back, the legs of behind are moderately spaced and parallel. The higher thighs are bien-musculeuses and powerful, suffocates well folded, the low well defined and regulated joint of wine of the Rhine to the ground. Dewclaws, if necessary, must be removed. Defects: Suffocate directly, the cowhocks, too narrow or the too broad one with the back.
Coat
The coat of the Siberian husky is double and medium in the length, giving a well-hairy aspect, but is never provided that to darken contour Net of the dog. The undercoat is soft and dense and the sufficient length to support the external coat. The hairs of guard of the external coat are directly and slightly smooth-lie, never hard nor position immediately of the body. It is advisable to note that the absence of the undercoat during the season of loss is règlage normal favourites and the fur between the toes and around the feet to present an aspect more ordered is allowed. To balance the fur on any other part of the dog should not be forgiven and should severely be penalized. Defects: Length, rough, or shaggy coat; texture too hard or too silky; règlage of the coat, except as authorized above.
Color
One allows all the colors of black the pure white. A variety of inscriptions on the head is common, including many seizing models not found in other races.
Step
The step characteristic of Siberian husky is smooth and apparently without effort. It is fast and light on its feet, and when in the exposure the ring should be gaited on a loose advance with a moderately fast trot, showing the good extension in the districts before and the good order in the back districts. Once seen of before with back all while moving with a walk the Siberian husky step with single rail, but as speed increases the legs fish gradually towards the interior until the trimmings fall on a line directly under the longitudinal center from the body. Because the marks of trimming converge, the forefeet and the legs of behind frank are carried, with neither of the elbows nor suffocate turned inside or outside. Each leg of behind moves in the way of the forefoot on the same side. While the dog gaiting, the topline remains company and level. Defects: Shorts, caracoler or step of step, to advance heavily or roll variable; crossing or crabbing.
Temperament
The temperament characteristic of the Siberian husky is friendly and also softens, but alarm and outgoing. It does not show possessive qualities of the watchdog, nor is finished it suspicious foreigners or aggressive with other dogs. A certain measurement of reservation and dignity can be envisaged in the ripe dog. Its intelligence, tractability, and eager provision make him a pleasant companion and a workman laid out.
Summary
The most important characteristics of race of the Siberian husky are average size, bone moderated, well balanced, facilitated and freedom of movement proportions, adapted coat, pleasant head and ears, correct tail, and good provision. Any aspect of step excessive of bone or weight, tightened or awkward, or to wish ardently, rough coat should be penalized. The Siberian husky never seems so heavy or rough as for suggesting an animal of transport; nor it is ignite thus and fragile as for suggesting an animal of Sprint-packing. In the two sexes the Siberian husky gives the aspect to be able of the great resistance. In addition to the already remarkable defects, the obvious structural defects common to all the races are as undesirable in the Siberian husky as in any other race, though they are not specifically mentioned above.
Disqualification
Dogs more than 23 inches of 1/2 and bitch more than 22 inches
Jumat, 10 Agustus 2007
Food for Siberian Husky
Siberian Husky's unique set of nutritional requirements have been passed on from generation to generation just like the breed's unique coat, body size and temperament. We have found that we can not change the genetic makeup of the animals we are feeding just by exposing them to a different diet for a small amount of time (1,000 to 2,000 years) any more than we can change any of their other genetically predetermined characteristics by taking them to a different climate. Therefore, I suggest that Siberian Husky owners try to feed their present companion pets with foods that contain what this breed requires. The food should contain: (#1) nutrient sources that are similar to those found in the native environment of the breed's ancestors (sources which are not foreign to the digestive and glandular systems of today's Siberian Husky and which are easy for them to assimilate) and (#2) the proper balance of protein, carbohydrates, fatty acids, vitamins and minerals that match the breed specific nutritional requirements - those which have been passed on by their ancestors.
Pet owners who feed siberian husky's companion pets correctly can save a lot of money. Many dogs are taken to the vet, suffering from nutritionally related problems, and the vet bills can be huge. i.e. dry/itchy/flaky skin, hot spots, yeast infections in the ear, thyroid - liver - kidney problems, just to name a few, cost the average dog owner hundreds of dollars every year. That is why I recommend that pet owners learn about the nutritional needs of the animal they are feeding before deciding on what they are going to feed their dog. When we first learn what our companion pet needs and then choose a diet that is correct for the animal being fed, it is a win-win situation: the dogs are healthier and the owners save money.
The best diet for a Siberian Husky is one that the owner makes fresh, using quality ingredients, without preservatives. It only takes about one to two hours a week to cook for a Siberian Husky so that both #1 & #2 are met and preparing home cooked meals for a dog can be less expensive than buying the average all-breed, any-breed commercial pet food.
Pet owners who feed siberian husky's companion pets correctly can save a lot of money. Many dogs are taken to the vet, suffering from nutritionally related problems, and the vet bills can be huge. i.e. dry/itchy/flaky skin, hot spots, yeast infections in the ear, thyroid - liver - kidney problems, just to name a few, cost the average dog owner hundreds of dollars every year. That is why I recommend that pet owners learn about the nutritional needs of the animal they are feeding before deciding on what they are going to feed their dog. When we first learn what our companion pet needs and then choose a diet that is correct for the animal being fed, it is a win-win situation: the dogs are healthier and the owners save money.
The best diet for a Siberian Husky is one that the owner makes fresh, using quality ingredients, without preservatives. It only takes about one to two hours a week to cook for a Siberian Husky so that both #1 & #2 are met and preparing home cooked meals for a dog can be less expensive than buying the average all-breed, any-breed commercial pet food.
Selasa, 07 Agustus 2007
Tips Training New Puppysibierian husky training tips for huskies Training Siberian Husky
1. Go through doors and passage ways before your dog.
Rite of passage is important to dogs, and the alpha has the right first.
2. Eat first--then feed your dog.
3. If your dog is blocking your path, make him move out of your way--do not go around or step over him. Sub-ordinate animals move for the alpha.
4. Call your dog to you for petting and attention. Don't go to him. Use Call Name only when good. When bad just say" Bad Dog Bad Puppy" And reward him. Motivation and Reward.We all need a good reason to do things well. Praise Praise and LOVE
5. When coming home,if your dog does not come to greet you, ignore him. If you go running to your dog then,
6.When you play with your dog, be sure that you end up with possession of the toy, and then put it up.
7. Don't allow your dog to sleep on the bed with you. At best you are making him equal with you. (Of course, we all let up on this one after our alphaness is firmly established.)
8. Practice trust/dominance exercises. Gently put your dog down on his side or back and touch his ears, paws, etc. and give him a massage to make it all pleasant for him. Offer treats if he doesn't want his paws touched while you are touching his paws. (This helps later when you have to trim the toe nails.)
9. Be your dogs leader. Prove to him that he can trust you in all situations, and that you will provide for his every need. Be consistent in enforcing all rules of the house. Establish regular routines that he can depend on.
10. Practice "doggy" discipline, that is when your dog engages in undesirable behavior, discipline him in a way that he understands. Give him a scruff shake and a grunt or growl. You must catch him in the act for discipline to be effective, however, or he won't understand for what he is being corrected. With huskies it is best to make direct EYE contact. Huskies like wolves talk with their eyes And Talk to your Husky.
11. Practice taking objects from him, toys, food, etc. Start by trading the object for a yummy treat. Then give back the object back to him. Get him used to your hands around his food bowl. Start by adding yummy treats while he is eating. Work up to removing his food bowl while eating to add the treats, then replacing the bowl for him to resume eating. You can eventually work up to actually slipping your hand in to remove food while he is eating.
12. Chewing - Puppies cannot help chewing, they teeth just like all babies. This can be most annoying and become a habit that is hard to break. When puppy is small and starts to nip and bit ( take his open mouth and hold it gently shut with your hand , like an alligator mouth, and say NO in a firm regular voice. Every time puppy does this. Then from the beginning puppy will know, OPEN MOUTH BITING AND CHEWING IS NO. It also helps to get baby teething rings and old socks etc, put them in the freezer, when frozen give them to puppy to chew to sooth the gums.
13.It helps to keep huskies on a Harness plus collar for Tags and identification. Animals attack at the throat and jugular vein. So to tug or try to train a husky by yanking on his neck,sends an ALARM signal of DANGER to him. Thus he balks. By keeping a standard harness from pet shop, it hooks to his back and feels comfortable
and he is much easier to control and teach. But Try leash training first.
14: Most important when beginning training. Teach the puppy his NAME: use the CALL name FIRST. Example
Sunny : Come! -Sunny: Sit! =treat Never use the command first and the call name after the command. Eg: Come here Sunny. -Sit Sunny. We all pay attention when we hear our name called but not necessarily when people are just talking. So put emphases the puppy name you have chosen. Now you have the beginning foundation for your training
and the walls that will hold your training together.
15: Do not expect too much from your puppy.Remember we all learn at our own pace and in a step by step lesson.
Just like teaching your child or a friend. Slow and patience.
There are many more things that you can do, but these are good starting points for becoming your dog's friend. Remember that security and trust are important to a dog, and a good training provides security and can always be trusted.
Remember another point The Key to success is love and commitment.
Rite of passage is important to dogs, and the alpha has the right first.
2. Eat first--then feed your dog.
3. If your dog is blocking your path, make him move out of your way--do not go around or step over him. Sub-ordinate animals move for the alpha.
4. Call your dog to you for petting and attention. Don't go to him. Use Call Name only when good. When bad just say" Bad Dog Bad Puppy" And reward him. Motivation and Reward.We all need a good reason to do things well. Praise Praise and LOVE
5. When coming home,if your dog does not come to greet you, ignore him. If you go running to your dog then,
6.When you play with your dog, be sure that you end up with possession of the toy, and then put it up.
7. Don't allow your dog to sleep on the bed with you. At best you are making him equal with you. (Of course, we all let up on this one after our alphaness is firmly established.)
8. Practice trust/dominance exercises. Gently put your dog down on his side or back and touch his ears, paws, etc. and give him a massage to make it all pleasant for him. Offer treats if he doesn't want his paws touched while you are touching his paws. (This helps later when you have to trim the toe nails.)
9. Be your dogs leader. Prove to him that he can trust you in all situations, and that you will provide for his every need. Be consistent in enforcing all rules of the house. Establish regular routines that he can depend on.
10. Practice "doggy" discipline, that is when your dog engages in undesirable behavior, discipline him in a way that he understands. Give him a scruff shake and a grunt or growl. You must catch him in the act for discipline to be effective, however, or he won't understand for what he is being corrected. With huskies it is best to make direct EYE contact. Huskies like wolves talk with their eyes And Talk to your Husky.
11. Practice taking objects from him, toys, food, etc. Start by trading the object for a yummy treat. Then give back the object back to him. Get him used to your hands around his food bowl. Start by adding yummy treats while he is eating. Work up to removing his food bowl while eating to add the treats, then replacing the bowl for him to resume eating. You can eventually work up to actually slipping your hand in to remove food while he is eating.
12. Chewing - Puppies cannot help chewing, they teeth just like all babies. This can be most annoying and become a habit that is hard to break. When puppy is small and starts to nip and bit ( take his open mouth and hold it gently shut with your hand , like an alligator mouth, and say NO in a firm regular voice. Every time puppy does this. Then from the beginning puppy will know, OPEN MOUTH BITING AND CHEWING IS NO. It also helps to get baby teething rings and old socks etc, put them in the freezer, when frozen give them to puppy to chew to sooth the gums.
13.It helps to keep huskies on a Harness plus collar for Tags and identification. Animals attack at the throat and jugular vein. So to tug or try to train a husky by yanking on his neck,sends an ALARM signal of DANGER to him. Thus he balks. By keeping a standard harness from pet shop, it hooks to his back and feels comfortable
and he is much easier to control and teach. But Try leash training first.
14: Most important when beginning training. Teach the puppy his NAME: use the CALL name FIRST. Example
Sunny : Come! -Sunny: Sit! =treat Never use the command first and the call name after the command. Eg: Come here Sunny. -Sit Sunny. We all pay attention when we hear our name called but not necessarily when people are just talking. So put emphases the puppy name you have chosen. Now you have the beginning foundation for your training
and the walls that will hold your training together.
15: Do not expect too much from your puppy.Remember we all learn at our own pace and in a step by step lesson.
Just like teaching your child or a friend. Slow and patience.
There are many more things that you can do, but these are good starting points for becoming your dog's friend. Remember that security and trust are important to a dog, and a good training provides security and can always be trusted.
Remember another point The Key to success is love and commitment.
Kamis, 02 Agustus 2007
Siberian Husky History
The Siberian Husky is widely believed to have originated exclusively with the Coastal Chukchi tribes of the east-Siberian peninsula. There is evidence, however, that Siberian dogs were also imported from the Koryak and Kamchadal tribes. Recent DNA analysis confirms that this is one of the oldest breeds of dog like their Samoyed cousins.Dogs from the Anadyr River and surrounding regions were imported into Alaska from 1908 (and for the next two decades) during the gold rush for use as sleddogs, especially in the All-Alaska Sweepstakes (AAS), a 408 mile (657 km) distance dogsled race from Nome to Candle and back. Smaller, faster and more enduring than the 100 to 120 pound (45 to 54 kg) freighting dogs then in general use, they immediately dominated the Nome Sweepstakes.
Leonhard Seppala, a Norwegian fisherman turned gold miner, became involved with Siberian dogs when he was asked by his employer to train a group of females and pups for the 1914 AAS. After a poor start his first year, Seppala dominated the races thereafter. In 1925 he was a key figure in the 1925 serum run to Nome which delivered diphtheria serum from Nenana by dogsled after the city was stricken by an epidemic. The Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race commemorates this famous delivery. This delivery is depicted in the children's movie Balto. The following year two groups of Seppala’s dogs toured the USA, starting a mania for sleddogs and dogsled racing, particularly in the New England states. (To this day the University of Connecticut basketball team is still known as the UConn Huskies.)
In 1930 the last Siberian Husky were exported as the Soviet government closed the borders of Siberia to external trade. The same year saw recognition of the Siberian Husky by the American Kennel Club. Nine years later the breed was first registered in Canada. Today’s Siberian Husky registered in North America are largely the descendants of the 1930 Siberia imports and of Leonhard Seppala’s dogs.
Leonhard Seppala, a Norwegian fisherman turned gold miner, became involved with Siberian dogs when he was asked by his employer to train a group of females and pups for the 1914 AAS. After a poor start his first year, Seppala dominated the races thereafter. In 1925 he was a key figure in the 1925 serum run to Nome which delivered diphtheria serum from Nenana by dogsled after the city was stricken by an epidemic. The Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race commemorates this famous delivery. This delivery is depicted in the children's movie Balto. The following year two groups of Seppala’s dogs toured the USA, starting a mania for sleddogs and dogsled racing, particularly in the New England states. (To this day the University of Connecticut basketball team is still known as the UConn Huskies.)
In 1930 the last Siberian Husky were exported as the Soviet government closed the borders of Siberia to external trade. The same year saw recognition of the Siberian Husky by the American Kennel Club. Nine years later the breed was first registered in Canada. Today’s Siberian Husky registered in North America are largely the descendants of the 1930 Siberia imports and of Leonhard Seppala’s dogs.
Rabu, 01 Agustus 2007
Siberian Husky History
The Siberian Husky is widely believed to have originated exclusively with the Coastal Chukchi tribes of the east-Siberian peninsula. There is evidence, however, that Siberian dogs were also imported from the Koryak and Kamchadal tribes. Recent DNA analysis confirms that this is one of the oldest breeds of dog like their Samoyed cousins.[2] Dogs from the Anadyr River and surrounding regions were imported into Alaska from 1908 (and for the next two decades) during the gold rush for use as sleddogs, especially in the All-Alaska Sweepstakes (AAS), a 408 mile (657 km) distance dogsled race from Nome to Candle and back. Smaller, faster and more enduring than the 100 to 120 pound (45 to 54 kg) freighting dogs then in general use, the siberian husky immediately dominated the Nome Sweepstakes.
Leonhard Seppala, a Norwegian fisherman turned gold miner, became involved with Siberian dogs when he was asked by his employer to train a group of females and pups for the 1914 AAS. After a poor start his first year, Seppala dominated the races thereafter. In 1925 he was a key figure in the 1925 serum run to Nome which delivered diphtheria serum from Nenana by dogsled after the city was stricken by an epidemic. The Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race commemorates this famous delivery. This delivery is depicted in the children's movie Balto. The following year two groups of Seppala’s dogs toured the USA, starting a mania for sleddogs and dogsled racing, particularly in the New England states. (To this day the University of Connecticut basketball team is still known as the UConn Huskies.)
In 1930 the last Siberians were exported as the Soviet government closed the borders of Siberia to external trade. The same year saw recognition of the Siberian Husky by the American Kennel Club. Nine years later the breed was first registered in Canada. Today’s Siberian Husky registered in North America are largely the descendants of the 1930 Siberia imports and of Leonhard Seppala’s dogs.
Leonhard Seppala, a Norwegian fisherman turned gold miner, became involved with Siberian dogs when he was asked by his employer to train a group of females and pups for the 1914 AAS. After a poor start his first year, Seppala dominated the races thereafter. In 1925 he was a key figure in the 1925 serum run to Nome which delivered diphtheria serum from Nenana by dogsled after the city was stricken by an epidemic. The Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race commemorates this famous delivery. This delivery is depicted in the children's movie Balto. The following year two groups of Seppala’s dogs toured the USA, starting a mania for sleddogs and dogsled racing, particularly in the New England states. (To this day the University of Connecticut basketball team is still known as the UConn Huskies.)
In 1930 the last Siberians were exported as the Soviet government closed the borders of Siberia to external trade. The same year saw recognition of the Siberian Husky by the American Kennel Club. Nine years later the breed was first registered in Canada. Today’s Siberian Husky registered in North America are largely the descendants of the 1930 Siberia imports and of Leonhard Seppala’s dogs.
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