Know more about Siberian Husky

Siberian Husky Grooming

2008-08-23T03:42:00.000-07:00

Siberian Grooming 101 or "shedding survival guide
for new husky owners" by Janet Elliott

This article is intended to provide some useful information for new Siberian owners who may not have had experience with a shedding husky before. Hopefully there will be some tips that others will also find useful.

Spring is a good time to talk about grooming as most of our beautiful Siberians are blowing coat. This is the time of year when we husky owners become more bonded to our vacuum cleaners than we are to our children and spouse.

The Siberian Husky Coat
Nordic breeds have a double coat, a soft undercoat and an outer coat known as guard hairs. The double coat insulates them from heat and cold, which is why they should never be shaved, even in the hottest climates. Twice a year the new guard coat coming in and pushes the undercoat out resulting in profuse shedding or “blowing coat”.

The addition of supplements containing omega three fatty acids along with other health benefits, helps reduce shedding and improve coat condition. Linseed oil or fish oil capsules can be purchased at Wal-Mart for under $10.00/ 120 capsules.

Why Groom?
Besides cutting down on the household “dust bunnies” there are many good reasons to schedule regular grooming sessions with your dog. As well as a good “bonding” time, it helps your dog become accustomed to being handled all over. This will make your dog more comfortable during visits to the vet. Grooming also helps stimulate the natural oils in your dog’s coat. Grooming is an opportunity for regular inspection for any parasites, lumps, skin problems, ear problems etc. that can become serious if undetected for long periods.

Grooming Equipment
Prior to bathing you should brush out as much of the loose hair as possible with a shed blade and or a coat rake (see below). Other tools to assemble for grooming can include a metal comb, rubber curry brush, spray bottle filled with water and a little conditioner and pin brush. One manufacturer, http://www.theuntangler.com, makes a good line of combs and rakes that have rotating teeth that remove tangles easily. A blower/dryer is an invaluable tool and well worth the investment. A grooming table, although not necessary, is a great back saver. Keep grooming sessions short and fun for your dog until he/she is comfortable with the process. I have found that a little peanut butter smeared on the top of the arm of the grooming table helps develop a good attitude towards grooming.

Brushing/Raking
The shed blade can be used to remove big clumps of loose hair. Then start at the head brushing against the lay of the coat, lay your hand below the coat rake and pull a little hair at a time up from under your hand and continue working toward the back of the dog. While brushing spray a fine mist of water mixed with a little conditioner to help loosen tangles and prevent breakage. Some of the main and tail detangler products for horses work great on the dogs. A seam ripper can be a useful tool in getting burrs out of the coat.

Removing Ticks
If you should discover a tick on your dog there are several methods that can be used for removal. One is to use forceps, don’t squeeze, to gently lift the tick up and out, taking care not to leave the head in the dog. Another good method that eliminates a chance of leaving part of the tick in the dog is to cover the tick completely with Vaseline and pull him off with the forceps when he comes up to breathe. After the tick is removed wash the area with alcohol swab or antibacterial soap.

Bathing
Too frequent bathing will dry your dog’s coat of natural oils but bathing with warm water during shedding periods will help loosen up the undercoat. After brushing, bathe the dog in warm water using a good quality dog shampoo. Human shampoo is too harsh although, in a pinch, you can use baby shampoo. Choose a shampoo that is appropriate for your dog’s coat. There are a wide variety of shampoos available including ones for dry itchy skin, sensitive skin, antibacterial, tea tree oil shampoos, and whitening shampoo for white or light colored dogs. Wet the dog thoroughly and don’t be stingy on the shampoo. Using a rubber curry brush is a huge help in loosening up hair and dirt. The most important step is rinsing, rinsing and rinsing again. Then towel dry as much as possible and finish with the dryer. Shampoo left on the coat or not thoroughly drying your dog can lead to hot spots. Conditioners with sunscreen are available for dogs with coats that are prone to sunburn. This helps red dogs keep a richer color and helps prevent black dogs from getting that red tinge to the guard hairs.

Hot Spots
Hot spots can become very serious. They start out as small breaks in the upper dermal layers. The bacteria begins to spread both sideways and deeper into underlying layers of skin. Left untreated, it grows from the size of a pinpoint to the size of a quarter in less than couple of hours and without intervention, up to two inches in diameter in less than 12 hours. The first thing to do when you notice a hot spot is to disinfect with hydrogen peroxide. A spray containing gentian violet is an effective treatment. Some people use Desenex Foot Spray to kill bacteria and keep the area dry. The most successful treatment I have found is coating the area with tee tree oil. Tea tree oil has antibacterial and anti fungal properties. You can buy Tea Tree oil shampoo at your pet store or buy the pure oil at Wal-Mart, KMart, and Targets. Dogs don’t like the taste so it stops the chewing. A hot spot treated with Tea Tree oil usually clears up and has new hair growth in about 10 days or less.

Nail Trimming
Nail trimming will go a lot easier if you handle your dog’s feet often. Nail clippers come in a few styles. Plier styles often comes with a safety to prevent cutting to deeply. I prefer a guillotine style with surgical steel blades. Be sure to keep some “quick stop” or something similar to stop bleeding if you do cut to far. Many people prefer to use a cordless Dremel tool to file the nails. This method works great but, some dogs don’t like the noise. Reward the dog with treats after each foot or if he is very upset by the procedure reward after each nail and only do a few at a time until he is more comfortable with the process. Peanut butter or another person standing by with treats can be a big help.

Ears
Ear cleaning can be done with a cotton ball soaked with mineral oil, which is also good for eliminating mites. A good homemade ear wash solution is:

5 tsp. boric acid powder

2 1/2 cups water

1 1/2 cups white vinegar

Mix and pour into a squeeze bottle.

Skunked?
If your dog has been skunked this is the best solution I know of to eliminate the odor.

1 quart 3% hydrogen peroxide

1/4 cup baking soda

1 tsp liquid soap

Bathe pet in solution and use a tap water rinse. Do not bottle it or try to save it.

Dog of North

2007-11-17T03:48:00.000-08:00

The Chukchi tribe of the vast expanses in the northern Siberia was the nomadic tribe that livestock Siberian Husky dogs. The tribe is well known for their outstanding ability to reproduce these dogs fine in 3000 years. They were a people who lived inland and hunted along the shoreline and coastal they used dogs to retreat to the game, many times over very long distances. Their dogs were high and purely selective and, consequently, the Siberian Husky today is very directly descended from the original dogs belonging to the tribe of Chukotka.

The dog was little known in the United States or Europe until the first "Alaska Sweepstakes" (later known as the Iditarod) was implemented and a team of Siberian huskies won. Thereafter expeditions to the North Pole, Siberia is also a major player. This beautiful and intelligent race has become a favorite Russian explorers and has been widely used throughout Siberia. For many years he was known as the "Chukchi" dog, but in the United States as "Siberian Husky" was invented in Britain, while the same race is often called the "Arctic Husky ".

The Siberian Husky is a beautiful dog. The eyes are almond-shaped and slightly tilted, the skull is clean and refined, with very soft bristled well erect ears loans intelligent and alert look in the head. Often, it is really a mask, and sometimes the eyes are a pale blue or golden yellow in color. The coat is soft and densely hairy and can be of any color, usually very marked symmetrically. It is a dog of medium size, classified as a "working dog" with great endurance and speed is the main feature of the race. Because of its close association with the Chukchi tribe, is seen as a "family member", it is very people-oriented and dog did not as strong a "pack mentality", as for example the Alaskan Malamute and husky some of the other breeds that have been bred to pull a game exclusively.

The Siberian Husky entry of the American Kennel Club registry in 1930 and its popularity has grown beyond that of being just a Dog Show. It is widely used as a Therapy Dog, doing well in obedience and agility and is also, of course, still used as a running dog sled. The Sibe "as he is affectionately called, is a nice and friendly dog completely, fairly easy to train and eager to please. By temperament, he is not aggressive to other dogs and people. It is relatively easy for the bride, even though it has a thick coat, it is not excessively long and is easy to maintain because it is rare for mats and fully tested. In addition to all this, it is healthy breeds that has very little genetic abnormalities or hereditary problems. It is an adaptable dog, but certainly need lots of exercise, because it was bred to be a working dog and should be kept busy or he will find something to occupy himself. It is above all a "simple custodial" and a happy companion dog who likes to work for his master.

Handling Dog Skin Allergies

2007-11-11T23:40:00.000-08:00

Take note of your dog skin problems

It was under their beautiful fur coats that the world of uncomfortable and even painful skin diseases are often lurking. Dogs skin problems can be an indication of a more serious and even life-threatening condition.

Some of the most dog skin problems are dry skin, usually indicated by the appearance of "dandruff" or excessive shedding, various fungal infections, mite irritation, scabies, and rashes that may be the result of the season , environmental or food allergies. Other problems include dog skin tumors, seborrhea skin diseases, melanoma and infected wounds.

The fact is that many of these conditions are completely treatable and often preventable. Identifying the cause and prevent skin problems dog is a responsibility that comes with the role of owning a dog. However, as an animal-loving guardian, adequate care and treatment of an animal is a legal obligation.

The Food and seasonal allergies dog

Some of the most preventable dog skin problems are caused by allergic dogs. Dog allergies may be the result of seasonal conditions, environmental factors or symptoms of food allergies. Many dog owners are surprised to learn that food allergies are not always related to food or a new regime. A dog can develop intolerance to foods they have eaten for years.

This is not a rare event for a dog to develop a food allergy when their immune system can be compromised. Adding a digestive enzyme to a dog's daily ration of a premium all natural foods several times is all that is necessary to heal the skin. Dog food allergies are often an intolerance to abnormal additives and preservatives.

Dog seasonal allergies can include parasites allergies. The chips are, for example, quite uncomfortable for a dog, but some dogs are particularly sensitive to flea bites. Although chips can be present at any time during the year, the hot, dry summer, when conditions are the worst. Other possible seasonal allergies are irritating pollens in the spring and mites. Rural dogs are at risk of developing other seasonal allergies where crop dusting occurs, or if other chemicals are used around the farm or surrounding properties.

If your dog is uncomfortable and too chewing and biting his legs and the back, scratching himself badly, or shows any signs or symptoms at all boring of a skin condition, please seek the advice of an veterinarian immediately.

Prevention is better than cure, the best premium all natural diet is the first weapon against skin problems dog and dog allergies. Dog owners must regularly check their dog skin and the feeling of any cuts, bumps and other skin diseases.

Husky is in Working dog Group

2007-11-06T21:57:00.000-08:00

As you begin your search for a dog, you are probably asking yourself, "What type of dog would be best for me?" Dogs come in many different sizes, colors, coats, and personalities. Start your dog ownership off on the right foot by doing your research before you settle on a breed.
Siberian huskies is submitted into working group dog. The breeds in this group were bred to help man. Their jobs range from rescue to sledding and guarding. They are intelligent, learn quickly, and make good companions. However, most of them are very large, strong dogs and they may not be suitable for families with young children. Proper training is very important with these breeds. Among the breeds are sled dogs like the Siberian Husky and Samoyed; draft dogs that were bred to pull heavy loads like the Bernese Mountain Dog; guard dogs including the Bullmastiff, Rottweiler and Akita; and rescue/water dogs such as the Newfoundland and Saint Bernard.

Start to Train Your Husky in 5 Steps

2007-11-02T04:40:00.000-07:00

In training Siberian Husky, you will require a lot of persistence and patience. Husky are easily bored with repeated tasks. They will only follow as long as the task is more interesting. Siberian husky is not your "do-anything-what-you-ask" dog, if you want the dog like that type, you have got the wrong breed.
Although siberian husky known as high rated breed dog, sometimes they also have some bad habits, like wander off and steal food after digging a hole under the fence. The digging instinct is strong and that, together with a need for exercise and a natural curiosity, often leads them into mischief. You will need a strong, well sunk fence if you want to keep your Siberian Husky at home. They have a strong desire to run, so should never be left to run free without a leash, for their own safety. They can forget where home is and just run forever.

How to train a Siberian Husky is therefore a more subtle art. You cannot force them. You must manipulate them so they see you as their leader, their inspiration. The trick is teach them to perceive you as more important than them, without them knowing. The following is a sample of some everyday things you can do to achieve this.

Here are some tips and tricks for training your Siberian Husky:

1. Start training your husky puppy with his name. Instruct all tasks begin with your husky's name then followed by the command.

2. Let he/she know that you are the leader. When you play with your Siberian Husky, make sure you end up with possession of the object. Go through doors and passageways before your dog. Rite of passage is important to dogs. Don't allow your husky to sleep on the bed with you, at least not until you have trained him. You don't want him to perceive that he is your equal. If your dog is blocking your path, don't go around him - make him move out of your way instead.

3. You need to get your husky used to having your hands around his food bowl. Start by adding tasty treats while he is eating, then get to the point where you can remove the bowl while he is eating to add the treats.

4.You want to get your dog used to seeing you as dominant, but under conditions of trust. Gently put him down on his side or back and touch his ears, paws and so forth and give him a massage to make it enjoyable for him.

5. use a harness instead of a collar and chain for your husky. Animals attack at the throat and jugular, so if you are trying to train a Siberian Husky by tugging on his neck, he will be too preoccupied with a sense of alarm and danger, to obey you.

The above are good starting points for becoming your husky's friend and still, there are a lot more tips for training your husky. Just remember that security and trust are important to a dog whatever their breed, so involves these in your training

DO and DONT about Siberian Husky

2007-10-26T05:40:00.000-07:00

Few other dog breeds are so seemingly surprising that the Siberian Husky. Their sweet temperament and playful nature make great family pets, you can give them the exercise and companionship they need. They are a unique breed with their endurance, and the test of double layers, protect their skin from the extremes of temperature in the cold or hot conditions. Well known for their remarkable blue eyes, and not all dogs have that color, some are brown or both eyes, one blue, one brown. As the proud owner of six of the race, here are a few things that I learned from both research and experience.

Do

* Getting a companion for your Siberian husky if possible. Siberians are pack dogs and bored easily. They do not like to be left alone. If you do, you can find big holes dug in the garden when you return home as Siberians can be very destructive when bored. If you are presenting the pet to another when they have a better chance of adapting when puppy in hood. They managed to mix with cats and other dogs present you young. Our six Siberians live in peace and relative harmony with four cats.

* Fence firmly in your court, so that the foundations are deep and the barrier is too high for them to jump over. Huskies are enthusiastic shovels and world-class and are excellent jumpers escape artists. In addition, their favorite pastime in the garden seems to be digging in their bowls of water!

* Make sure your exercise is quite raspy. As they work Siberians dogs are not a good way to low energy consumption of households. However, if you have a companion dogs they like to play "tag" with each other and often by themselves bring revolves around your garden, if it is large enough.

* Invest time and patience in training. Siberians are very intelligent dogs, but also voluntary. They can not do anything unless they see the reasons for doing so, not just to please their owners.

* Keep them on a leash at all times outside in an open area. Like many owners Sibe know their cost, as Huskies to launch and run, and lose all sense of reality. Unfortunately, many huskies are lost or injured because of this single mind, as when they realize they have outrun their owners or are too far from home, it is too late. Worse still, they could find themselves running in the path of a car.

* Get checked regularly for dysplasia of the hip around 6 years and older. While race does not have a wide range of documented health problems they are prone to dysplasia of the hip, especially if they do not have high levels of fat and protein in their diet. The lifespan of a husky is usually 12-15 years. So they are deemed to withstand the coldest temperatures, double layer also offers them the protection of the skin from the sun in warmer climates, but with their very dense coat, you can find your favorite position Husky is sitting in front the unit air-conditioning, Prone on his back with all four paws in the air!

* If, like me, you live in a developing country (or region), not Western standards of veterinary care then check very carefully with regard to the type of anesthesia to give your Sibe. Get your veterinarian to do a test if necessary. It is possible that severe reactions can occur in Huskies if not given the equivalent of anesthesia - I speak from experience here. Fortunately I had read about the dangers from the outset and in order to avoid being neutral, as the type of anesthesia was not available. However, there came a time when one of my Huskies need for immediate surgery for a situation of life and death and I almost lost because of his bad reaction to anesthesia. His whole face and body swollen and require urgent attention. I now live in a region where the good quality types (human) is available local anesthesia and the veterinarian understands the vagaries of race; So all have since been sterilized without any problems.

Do not

* Getting a Husky if you want a watchdog. With their kind, they are affectionate friendly to everyone, even strangers. They are big "guardians", she will see a thief to come in your house and greet with enthusiasm, then watch them leave your TV, computer, etc., giving them a friendly lick send them on their way!

* Worry too grooming. They are pretty low maintenance, which requires a minimum of brushing daily. But twice a year, they shed profusely, and then they need more care.

* Expect your Husky to bark. Instead, they have a great ability to speak, wooing screaming and yodelling and can make complete sentences at the interaction with their owners and to begin play. These dogs are real talkers, you never know what sounds they will make next, and seem to have more and more vocabulary as the years go by. Some mines are now able to complete sentences, talking about the weather and as such!

* Overfeed them. Siberians are saving (and picky) eaters and therefore do not require as much food as you would think. Because of their sensitive digestive system (remember they are sled dogs), they can better with fish and meat products white rather than red meat. They also need fish oil in their diet, maintain a healthy coat and nails. This could be in the form of sardines or more dry food and veterinary supplements containing Omega-3 today.

4 Main Races of Husky

2007-09-18T09:58:00.001-07:00

The huskies or dogs Scandinavian are composed of four races:

Samoyède
With its long white hairs, it is originating in the north of Russia (tribe of Samoyèdes).
It was used since 1893 by forwardings polar of Norwegian Fridjof Nansen.

The Greenlander
He is still used in Greenland by Inuits, he is very enduring and more reliable than a motor bike snows.

Malamute
IT is largest and heaviest of the Scandinavian dogs. It has a remarkable capacity to tractor draw heavy loads. It holds its name of the tribe of Malhmuts which lived in Alaska.

Sibérian Husky
IT is most known of the Scandinavian dogs and approaches more of the wolf. It is originating in the tribe of Tchouktches in Siberia. It has a great capacity to tractor draw average charges at very long distances.
“Siberian Husky is a dog of work, selected to draw a light load at speed moderate on long distances. This long-distance runner nimble, powerful and is equipped with an enormous load-carrying capacity. It is a worker full with goodwill, a soft, waked up and sociable companion. Forged by the hard conditions of the Arctic, Siberian Husky has a very good memory and an excellent direction of the orientation. Of an above-average intelligence, it is able to take initiatives. Dog of pack, Husky needs hierarchical rules. In fact, it is the Master who must play the part of chief of pack, dominating, honest and especially without fault. ”. Thus Marie Luce Hubert and Jean-Louis Klein in their book define it:
“my dog, Siberian Husky”. Very many books were devoted to Huskies but this one is, in my opinion, one of best (food, health, raising, breeding,… etc suitable for Siberian Husky).

Alaskan Husky
IT is not a pedigree dog. It is the result of crossings between Siberian Husky and the dogs of the greyhound type or setters for their quality of speed. It is before a whole sprinter whereas Siberian Husky is more one long-distance runner.

Note:
Siberian Husky seems more “to be with the mode”, and it is very well as follows: enough to see these animals living in centre town, locked up all the day in apartment and which one finds with the SPA. One can completely live in apartment that was my case before having a house with ground, but that does not want to say that the dog made “of the settee” all the day and must corrode the feet of table to occupy itself… If one decides to have a husky, it is better to have already an active and sporting life. Siberian Husky requires that one deals with him because there does not like to remain all alone and with need to be spent physically regularly. You are not obliged to make mountain the every day or of going to Canada!!! but one strolls daily and an excursion on average mountain or in the countryside the weekend is already a super program for your companion. Many possibilities are thus offered to you: VTT, excursion, rackets with snow, ski touring, pulka, race with foot, rollers and other mountain activities like the alpinism and the ski touring.

Sibverian Husky Standard

2007-08-30T10:23:00.000-07:00

The Siberian husky is a dog working average, quickly and light on its feet and free and gracious in the action. Its moderately compact and well-hairy body, right ears and tail of brush suggest its Scandinavian heritage. Its characteristic step is smooth and apparently without effort. It most skilfully carries out its original function in the harness, supporting a light load distances from a moderate surplus from speed to the large ones. Its proportions and forms body reflect this basic balance of the forces, speed and resistance. The males of the race of Siberian husky are male but never rough; the bitches are female but without weakness of structure. In adapted state, with the company of muscle and developed well, the Siberian husky does not carry the excessive weight.

Cut, proportion, substance

Cut: Dogs, 21 to 23 inches of 1/2 with the garrot. Bitch, 20 to 22 inches with the garrot.
Weight: Dogs, 45 to 60 books. Bitch, 35 to 50 books. The weight is proportionally with the size. Measurements mentioned above represent the extreme limits of size and weight without the preference indicated to one or the other extreme. Any aspect of bone or excessive weight should be penalized. In the profile, the length of the body of the point of the shoulder at the back point of the croup is slightly longer than the size of the body of the ground to the top of the garrot.

Disqualification: Dogs more than 23 inches of 1/2 and bitch more than 22 inches.
Head

Expression: Is sharp, but friendly; interested and even malfaisant.

Eyes: The almond formed, moderately spaced and placed an oblique trifle. The eyes can be brown or blue colors; one of each one or party-coloured are acceptable. Defects: Regulated eyes too oblique; to place too narrowly together.

Ears: Average, triangular size in the high one of form, with tolerances tight and regulated on the head. They thick, quite hairy, are slightly arched at the bottom, and strongly set up, with ends slightly rounded moving directly upwards. Defects: Too large ears proportionally with the head; broad-to place too; to set up not strongly.

Cranium: Average size and proportionally with the body; slightly rounded on the top and to fray the broadest point with the eyes. Defects: The awkward or heavy main thing; head too finely engraved.

Stop: The stop is well defined and the bridge of the nose comes directly from the stop to the end. Defect: Insufficient stop.

Muzzle: Average length; i.e., the distance from the end of the nose to the stop is equal to the stopping distance to the occiput. The muzzle is of average width, fraying gradually with the nose, with the directed end neither nor square. Defects: To muzzle snipy too much or too gross; to muzzle too short or too length.

Nose: To blacken at the gray dogs, bronzings or blacks; liver in the copper dogs; can flesh-be coloured in the pure white dogs. The “nose of snow” pink-striated is acceptable.

Lips: To be well pigmented and with tight tolerances.

Teeth: Closing in a bite of scissors. Defect: any bite other than of the scissors.
Neck, Topline, body

Neck: Medium in right length, arched and proudly carried when the dog is held. While moving with a trot, the neck is prolonged so that the head forwards is slightly carried. Defects: Too short neck and deeply; too long neck.

Case: Deep and strong, but not too broad, with the major point being right behind and of level with the elbows. The veins well-are spouted out spine but are flattened sides to take account of the liberty of action. Defects: Case too broad; “veins of barrel; ” vein too flat or weak.

Back: The back is right and strong, with a topline of level of garrot to the croup. It is average length, neither cobby nor coward excessive length. The spine is tended and thin, narrower than the camp of vein, and with light remplier-towards the top. The croup inclines far from the spine under an angle, but never so much fast inclined as for limiting the back push of the legs of behind. Defects: Weak back or coward; roached behind; inclined topline.
short bée; plumed strongly the tail; so low regulated tail or too high.
Front districts

Shoulders: The blade of shoulder is well given. The arm high fishes slightly towards the back of the point of shoulder to draw aside from a blow of elbow, and is never perpendicular to the ground. The muscles and the ligaments holding the shoulder on the camp of vein firm and are well developed. Defects: Right shoulders; shoulders cowards.

Forefeet: And seen so upright the front one, the legs is moderately spaced, parallel and right, with the elbows close to the body and turned neither inside nor outside. Seen side, pasterns are slightly tilted, with the strong commun run pastern, but flexible. The bone is substantial but never heavy. The length of the leg of the elbow to be rectified is slightly more than the distance from the elbow to the signal of withers. Dewclaws one forelegs may Be removed. Faults: Weak pasterns; too heavy bone; too narrow gold too wide in the face; out At the elbows.

Feet: Of oval form but not to wish ardently. The legs are average in the face, compact and well-hairy between the toes and the trimmings. The trimmings hard and are abundantly deadened. The legs neither turn in nor outside when the dog is in the normal position. Defects: Soft or widened toes; too large and awkward legs; too small and sensitive legs; botter inside or outside.

Hindquarters
And seen so upright back, the legs of behind are moderately spaced and parallel. The higher thighs are bien-musculeuses and powerful, suffocates well folded, the low well defined and regulated joint of wine of the Rhine to the ground. Dewclaws, if necessary, must be removed. Defects: Suffocate directly, the cowhocks, too narrow or the too broad one with the back.

Coat
The coat of the Siberian husky is double and medium in the length, giving a well-hairy aspect, but is never provided that to darken contour Net of the dog. The undercoat is soft and dense and the sufficient length to support the external coat. The hairs of guard of the external coat are directly and slightly smooth-lie, never hard nor position immediately of the body. It is advisable to note that the absence of the undercoat during the season of loss is règlage normal favourites and the fur between the toes and around the feet to present an aspect more ordered is allowed. To balance the fur on any other part of the dog should not be forgiven and should severely be penalized. Defects: Length, rough, or shaggy coat; texture too hard or too silky; règlage of the coat, except as authorized above.

Color
One allows all the colors of black the pure white. A variety of inscriptions on the head is common, including many seizing models not found in other races.

Step
The step characteristic of Siberian husky is smooth and apparently without effort. It is fast and light on its feet, and when in the exposure the ring should be gaited on a loose advance with a moderately fast trot, showing the good extension in the districts before and the good order in the back districts. Once seen of before with back all while moving with a walk the Siberian husky step with single rail, but as speed increases the legs fish gradually towards the interior until the trimmings fall on a line directly under the longitudinal center from the body. Because the marks of trimming converge, the forefeet and the legs of behind frank are carried, with neither of the elbows nor suffocate turned inside or outside. Each leg of behind moves in the way of the forefoot on the same side. While the dog gaiting, the topline remains company and level. Defects: Shorts, caracoler or step of step, to advance heavily or roll variable; crossing or crabbing.

Temperament
The temperament characteristic of the Siberian husky is friendly and also softens, but alarm and outgoing. It does not show possessive qualities of the watchdog, nor is finished it suspicious foreigners or aggressive with other dogs. A certain measurement of reservation and dignity can be envisaged in the ripe dog. Its intelligence, tractability, and eager provision make him a pleasant companion and a workman laid out.

Summary
The most important characteristics of race of the Siberian husky are average size, bone moderated, well balanced, facilitated and freedom of movement proportions, adapted coat, pleasant head and ears, correct tail, and good provision. Any aspect of step excessive of bone or weight, tightened or awkward, or to wish ardently, rough coat should be penalized. The Siberian husky never seems so heavy or rough as for suggesting an animal of transport; nor it is ignite thus and fragile as for suggesting an animal of Sprint-packing. In the two sexes the Siberian husky gives the aspect to be able of the great resistance. In addition to the already remarkable defects, the obvious structural defects common to all the races are as undesirable in the Siberian husky as in any other race, though they are not specifically mentioned above.

Disqualification
Dogs more than 23 inches of 1/2 and bitch more than 22 inches

Food for Siberian Husky

2007-08-10T11:20:00.000-07:00

Siberian Husky's unique set of nutritional requirements have been passed on from generation to generation just like the breed's unique coat, body size and temperament. We have found that we can not change the genetic makeup of the animals we are feeding just by exposing them to a different diet for a small amount of time (1,000 to 2,000 years) any more than we can change any of their other genetically predetermined characteristics by taking them to a different climate. Therefore, I suggest that Siberian Husky owners try to feed their present companion pets with foods that contain what this breed requires. The food should contain: (#1) nutrient sources that are similar to those found in the native environment of the breed's ancestors (sources which are not foreign to the digestive and glandular systems of today's Siberian Husky and which are easy for them to assimilate) and (#2) the proper balance of protein, carbohydrates, fatty acids, vitamins and minerals that match the breed specific nutritional requirements - those which have been passed on by their ancestors.

Pet owners who feed siberian husky's companion pets correctly can save a lot of money. Many dogs are taken to the vet, suffering from nutritionally related problems, and the vet bills can be huge. i.e. dry/itchy/flaky skin, hot spots, yeast infections in the ear, thyroid - liver - kidney problems, just to name a few, cost the average dog owner hundreds of dollars every year. That is why I recommend that pet owners learn about the nutritional needs of the animal they are feeding before deciding on what they are going to feed their dog. When we first learn what our companion pet needs and then choose a diet that is correct for the animal being fed, it is a win-win situation: the dogs are healthier and the owners save money.

The best diet for a Siberian Husky is one that the owner makes fresh, using quality ingredients, without preservatives. It only takes about one to two hours a week to cook for a Siberian Husky so that both #1 & #2 are met and preparing home cooked meals for a dog can be less expensive than buying the average all-breed, any-breed commercial pet food.

Tips Training New Puppysibierian husky training tips for huskies Training Siberian Husky

2007-08-07T09:46:00.000-07:00

1. Go through doors and passage ways before your dog.
Rite of passage is important to dogs, and the alpha has the right first.

2. Eat first--then feed your dog.

3. If your dog is blocking your path, make him move out of your way--do not go around or step over him. Sub-ordinate animals move for the alpha.

4. Call your dog to you for petting and attention. Don't go to him. Use Call Name only when good. When bad just say" Bad Dog Bad Puppy" And reward him. Motivation and Reward.We all need a good reason to do things well. Praise Praise and LOVE

5. When coming home,if your dog does not come to greet you, ignore him. If you go running to your dog then,

6.When you play with your dog, be sure that you end up with possession of the toy, and then put it up.

7. Don't allow your dog to sleep on the bed with you. At best you are making him equal with you. (Of course, we all let up on this one after our alphaness is firmly established.)

8. Practice trust/dominance exercises. Gently put your dog down on his side or back and touch his ears, paws, etc. and give him a massage to make it all pleasant for him. Offer treats if he doesn't want his paws touched while you are touching his paws. (This helps later when you have to trim the toe nails.)

9. Be your dogs leader. Prove to him that he can trust you in all situations, and that you will provide for his every need. Be consistent in enforcing all rules of the house. Establish regular routines that he can depend on.

10. Practice "doggy" discipline, that is when your dog engages in undesirable behavior, discipline him in a way that he understands. Give him a scruff shake and a grunt or growl. You must catch him in the act for discipline to be effective, however, or he won't understand for what he is being corrected. With huskies it is best to make direct EYE contact. Huskies like wolves talk with their eyes And Talk to your Husky.

11. Practice taking objects from him, toys, food, etc. Start by trading the object for a yummy treat. Then give back the object back to him. Get him used to your hands around his food bowl. Start by adding yummy treats while he is eating. Work up to removing his food bowl while eating to add the treats, then replacing the bowl for him to resume eating. You can eventually work up to actually slipping your hand in to remove food while he is eating.

12. Chewing - Puppies cannot help chewing, they teeth just like all babies. This can be most annoying and become a habit that is hard to break. When puppy is small and starts to nip and bit ( take his open mouth and hold it gently shut with your hand , like an alligator mouth, and say NO in a firm regular voice. Every time puppy does this. Then from the beginning puppy will know, OPEN MOUTH BITING AND CHEWING IS NO. It also helps to get baby teething rings and old socks etc, put them in the freezer, when frozen give them to puppy to chew to sooth the gums.

13.It helps to keep huskies on a Harness plus collar for Tags and identification. Animals attack at the throat and jugular vein. So to tug or try to train a husky by yanking on his neck,sends an ALARM signal of DANGER to him. Thus he balks. By keeping a standard harness from pet shop, it hooks to his back and feels comfortable
and he is much easier to control and teach. But Try leash training first.

14: Most important when beginning training. Teach the puppy his NAME: use the CALL name FIRST. Example
Sunny : Come! -Sunny: Sit! =treat Never use the command first and the call name after the command. Eg: Come here Sunny. -Sit Sunny. We all pay attention when we hear our name called but not necessarily when people are just talking. So put emphases the puppy name you have chosen. Now you have the beginning foundation for your training
and the walls that will hold your training together.

15: Do not expect too much from your puppy.Remember we all learn at our own pace and in a step by step lesson.
Just like teaching your child or a friend. Slow and patience.

There are many more things that you can do, but these are good starting points for becoming your dog's friend. Remember that security and trust are important to a dog, and a good training provides security and can always be trusted.

Remember another point The Key to success is love and commitment.

Siberian Husky History

2007-08-02T11:25:00.000-07:00

The Siberian Husky is widely believed to have originated exclusively with the Coastal Chukchi tribes of the east-Siberian peninsula. There is evidence, however, that Siberian dogs were also imported from the Koryak and Kamchadal tribes. Recent DNA analysis confirms that this is one of the oldest breeds of dog like their Samoyed cousins.Dogs from the Anadyr River and surrounding regions were imported into Alaska from 1908 (and for the next two decades) during the gold rush for use as sleddogs, especially in the All-Alaska Sweepstakes (AAS), a 408 mile (657 km) distance dogsled race from Nome to Candle and back. Smaller, faster and more enduring than the 100 to 120 pound (45 to 54 kg) freighting dogs then in general use, they immediately dominated the Nome Sweepstakes.

Leonhard Seppala, a Norwegian fisherman turned gold miner, became involved with Siberian dogs when he was asked by his employer to train a group of females and pups for the 1914 AAS. After a poor start his first year, Seppala dominated the races thereafter. In 1925 he was a key figure in the 1925 serum run to Nome which delivered diphtheria serum from Nenana by dogsled after the city was stricken by an epidemic. The Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race commemorates this famous delivery. This delivery is depicted in the children's movie Balto. The following year two groups of Seppala’s dogs toured the USA, starting a mania for sleddogs and dogsled racing, particularly in the New England states. (To this day the University of Connecticut basketball team is still known as the UConn Huskies.)

In 1930 the last Siberian Husky were exported as the Soviet government closed the borders of Siberia to external trade. The same year saw recognition of the Siberian Husky by the American Kennel Club. Nine years later the breed was first registered in Canada. Today’s Siberian Husky registered in North America are largely the descendants of the 1930 Siberia imports and of Leonhard Seppala’s dogs.

Siberian Husky History

2007-08-01T10:16:00.000-07:00

The Siberian Husky is widely believed to have originated exclusively with the Coastal Chukchi tribes of the east-Siberian peninsula. There is evidence, however, that Siberian dogs were also imported from the Koryak and Kamchadal tribes. Recent DNA analysis confirms that this is one of the oldest breeds of dog like their Samoyed cousins.[2] Dogs from the Anadyr River and surrounding regions were imported into Alaska from 1908 (and for the next two decades) during the gold rush for use as sleddogs, especially in the All-Alaska Sweepstakes (AAS), a 408 mile (657 km) distance dogsled race from Nome to Candle and back. Smaller, faster and more enduring than the 100 to 120 pound (45 to 54 kg) freighting dogs then in general use, the siberian husky immediately dominated the Nome Sweepstakes.

Leonhard Seppala, a Norwegian fisherman turned gold miner, became involved with Siberian dogs when he was asked by his employer to train a group of females and pups for the 1914 AAS. After a poor start his first year, Seppala dominated the races thereafter. In 1925 he was a key figure in the 1925 serum run to Nome which delivered diphtheria serum from Nenana by dogsled after the city was stricken by an epidemic. The Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race commemorates this famous delivery. This delivery is depicted in the children's movie Balto. The following year two groups of Seppala’s dogs toured the USA, starting a mania for sleddogs and dogsled racing, particularly in the New England states. (To this day the University of Connecticut basketball team is still known as the UConn Huskies.)

In 1930 the last Siberians were exported as the Soviet government closed the borders of Siberia to external trade. The same year saw recognition of the Siberian Husky by the American Kennel Club. Nine years later the breed was first registered in Canada. Today’s Siberian Husky registered in North America are largely the descendants of the 1930 Siberia imports and of Leonhard Seppala’s dogs.

Temperament and Behavior

2007-07-31T10:47:00.000-07:00

Temperament
Despite their wolf-like appearance, Siberian Husky generally have a gentle temperament. Being a working breed, Siberians are very energetic and enjoy the ability to explore and run. That, combined with their striking appearance, has made them popular as both family pets and as show dogs. Siberians can be extremely affectionate, curious (like all dogs), and welcoming to people; characteristics that usually render them as poor guard dogs. Properly socialized Siberians are most often quite gentle with children (although no child should be left unsupervised with dogs).

The harsh conditions in which Siberians originated rewarded a strong prey drive, as food was often scarce. Consequently, Siberians may instinctively attack animals such as house cats, birds, squirrels, rabbits, chickens, quail, and even deer, and have been known to savage sheep. However, many households enjoy harmonious, mixed "packs" of cats and Siberians; this works best when the dogs are raised with cats from puppyhood.

A 2000 study on dog bites resulting in human fatalities by the US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention found fifteen such fatalities caused by "husky-type" dogs (excluding Alaskan Malamutes) between 1979 and 1997.[1]. Most Huskies are not especially aggressive, but some dogs may have stronger prey drive than most, which may manifest itself in aggression towards humans.

Behavior
As with any dog breed, Siberian Husky do have some qualities which some pet owners may find undesirable. Despite their affectionate nature, Siberian Husky are not as subservient and eager to please their owners as some other popular breeds, and will sometimes refuse to perform a task unless given a better "motive" than simply pleasing their trainer. Siberian Huskies can be challenging to train due to their strong will and independent thinking. Proper training requires persistence and patience. Siberian Huskies are not generally recommended for first time dog owners, as their strong will and desire to run are difficult for inexperienced owners to manage.

Siberian Husky have strong running instincts and therefore for their own safety should never be left to run free off-leash. They have little "homing instinct" and will run for long distances, and therefore should always be kept on a leash or in a fenced yard. Siberians also dig large holes and will show considerable ingenuity in escaping from fenced runs. As sled dogs they have a very strong desire to pull, thus good obedience training is recommended.

Siberians require exercise on a daily basis and a secure fence at all times. Although they do sometimes bark, they are more frequently known to "yodel", "howl", or "whoo", often vocalizing when excited, back-talking to their owners, or to initiate some play or challenge behavior with either human or canine companions.
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Siberian Husky Apperance

2007-07-30T11:02:00.000-07:00

Eyes
Siberian Husky's eyes are brown, blue, amber, green, hazel or light brown. The light blue eye color is also part of the characteristic, but not completely dominant genetically. The breed may have one eye brown or hazel and the other blue (called "bi-eyed") or may have blue and another color mixed in the iris of one or both eyes; this latter trait, heterochromia, is called "parti-eyed" by Siberian enthusiasts. This is one of the few breeds for which different-colored eyes are allowed in the show ring. The Siberian Husky is one of the few dog breeds where blue eyes are common. No preference to eye color is given in the breed show ring, as it does not influence the dog's ability to pull a sled.

Ears and tail
Its ears are triangular, well-furred, medium-sized, and erect. Their ears are soft and they have very good hearing. Its fox-like brush tail is carried in a sickle curve over the back, and trails behind the dog in motion. Most Siberian Huskies' have a white tip on the end of their tail.

Coat
The Siberian Husky's coat consists of two layers, a dense, cashmere-like undercoat and a longer coarser topcoat consisting of short, straight guard hairs. This top coat can actually be two different colors, and it's not unusual to find it growing white then black then white on the same piece of fur. Siberians Husky's shed their undercoat two times a year or with the change of seasons; the process is commonly referred to as "blowing their coat". Otherwise, grooming is minimal; bathing is normally unnecessary as the coat sheds dirt. When grooming, most of the work needs to be done on the rear legs, as this is an area which does not naturally lose as much fur as the rest of the animal. The dog should be brushed when the fur starts to clump. Healthy Siberians have little odor. A properly groomed coat is also important especially if the dog has an affinity for playing in water, as the risk of developing fungal infections with a wet undercoat should be taken into consideration if the husky has not been properly brushed.Their coat can be likened to that of their closest relative the Samoyed but is not as big or dense.

Nose
Like all dogs, the Husky's nose is normally cool and moist. In some instances, Siberians can exhibit what is called 'snow nose' or 'winter nose'. Technically called "hypopigmentation", it results from loss of sunlight, and causes the nose (or parts of it) to fade to brown or pink in winter. The normal color returns as summer approaches. Snow nose also occurs in other light-coated breeds; the color change can become permanent in older dogs, especially red & white and cream colored Siberians, though it is not associated with disease.

Size
There is a large variation in size among Huskies, and breed standards state that height at the withers and weight should always be proportional to each other. The approximate measurements:

Males
Height: 21 to 23.5 inches (53.5 to 60 cm)
Weight: 45 to 60 lb (20.5 to 28 kg)
Females
Height: 20 to 22 in. (50.5 to 56 cm)
Weight: 35 to 50 lb (15.5 to 23 kg)

Siberian Husky, Great Dog

2007-07-30T10:42:00.000-07:00

The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized, dense-coated working dog breed that originated in eastern Siberia, belonging to the Spitz genetic family. It is recognizable by its thickly-furred double coat, sickle tail, erect triangular ears and distinctive markings.

An active, energetic and resilient breed whose ancestors came from the extremely cold and harsh environment of the Siberian Arctic, it was imported into Alaska during the Nome Gold Rush and spread from there into the United States and Canada, initially as a sled dog. Siberian Husky rapidly acquired the status of a family pet and a show-dog, no longer as much used as a sled dog as formerly; today siberian husky has been largely replaced in dogsled racing by crossbreds.

Siberian Husky share many outward similarities with the Alaskan Malamute as well as many other spitz breeds such as the Samoyed, which has a comparable history to the Huskies. Siberians have a thicker coat than most other breeds of dog. It comes in a variety of colors and patterns, usually with white paws and legs, facial markings, and tail tip. Siberian Husky the most common colors are black and white, grey and white, copper-red and white, and pure white, though many individuals have brown, reddish, or biscuit shadings and some are piebald spotted. Striking masks, spectacles, and other facial markings occur in wide variety. They tend to have a wolf-like appearance. Though the breed is not related to the wolf any closer than any other breed of dog, it is thought the siberian husky maintained this appearance through isolated breeding of Siberia.